SAS Ponds - Stephens Aquatic Services

Hello to all,

Happy Spring! This Pamela Stephens Schlett sending you best wishes for the new year. The crocuses and daffodils are starting to show growth and our phones are ringing with customers requesting pond service. Our family hopes that your family is well and we can’t wait to see you in a few weeks.

This has been a busy spring for us. We are adding plants to our aquatic plant nursery and making more improvements to the facilities at the Kennett Pike location. No we have not moved. Unfortunately we are caught up in the same issues as most small businesses who want to, but can’t expand at this time. Hopefully the world will find a way to work through the economic issues and allow us all to fulfill our dreams for the future.

The animals are looking forward to your visit. We added a 20 more chickens to the roost. They all have individual personalities and are quite friendly with people. So do not be surprised if they great you at the greenhouse door. However our rooster to hen ratio is quite heavy. We are looking for loving homes for a few of our roosters. Please let us know if you can offer a loving home to a colorful rooster.

We added a female Sulcata Tortoise last summer. Paige is a 12 year old, beautiful girl who lived with friends and customers of ours in Kennett Sq. until she became too large for them to carry up and down the cellar steps. She is joined by Buddy who is an 18 yr old male and Sammy who is 14 yrs old and the largest of the brood weighing in at over 120 lbs.  If you are lucky, you may get to witness feeding time. The tortoises all eat broccoli, bananas, lettuce and apples from Joan’s hand.

Foster, our dog celebrated his 14th birthday in November. His eye sight and hearing are a little dull, but he is still a happy playful puppy. The ducks (Missy & Pharo), the bunnies (Patches, Rusty & Mocha), the smaller tortoises, (Scarlet & Albert) and all of the box and water turtles are doing great.

As well as releasing thousands of lady bugs and praying mantis. The animals and insects are part of our beneficial pest management program.

2009 Spring

Pond Guide

for North East USDA zones 5-7

SPLASH NEWS

The Website www.SASPONDS.com is up and will soon be filled with lots of good pond info. Many of you may be receiving this newsletter from logging into the site now. For those of you who haven’t tried it yet, log on and check out the calendar of events and helpful pond facts.

A few upcoming events worth mentioning:

**      The Mid Atlantic Koi Club will have there annual meeting in our greenhouse on June 28th. Go to their website for more info or to join:  www.makc.com/08welcome.html

**      SAS pond lecture and seminars will run every Sunday from 11 am to 12 starting April 19th. These are free to the public.

We are promoting our website to vendors who will provide helpful information on products and trends in the water garden industry.

You will find additional links to friends of ours who specialize in areas relating to turtle vet care, arbor culture and other horticultural issues we at Stephens don’t have the same level of knowledge in. We will welcome your feed-back and hope to have a posting area for your pond pictures and short comments in the website soon. Please be patient with me, this is my first time managing a website, so I am sure I will make mistakes.

We will be stocking the outdoor areas with locally grown herbs, vegetable plants, annual flowers and perennials soon. Selection will vary from week to week, so you want to check in often so you don’t miss out on the rare and unusual plants.

Other property improvements are also planned; we hope to add new outdoor pond displays for our larger fish.

Spring Pond

Cleaning Begins……

A.          Begin the cleaning by inspecting the water quality and algae growth. Remove any winter leaf netting or protective tarps. Store them for next year

B.          Perform pond water and tap water tests for pH, chlorine, ammonia and nitrate and nitrite and write down the result for later reference.

C.          A full or partial pump down of a pond is a full day’s work. Begin by removing potted plants and statuary from the pond. Be sure to have a container that will hold at least 20% of the ponds water volume.

D.          You should net out as much debris as possible while the pond water is being removed. When netting debris, inspect each net full for living creatures. Use a piece of plastic or tarp to dump each net full onto. Tadpoles, young fish, dragonfly larva, crayfish, snails and frogs all love the food and shelter the debris provide. Pump water from the pond into your container. Plug in the air bubbler and place your air bubbler stone in this container to aerate the water. You can also install a small submersible pump to provide aeration. Keep the container out of the direct sun.

What do you do with the plants & fish?

E.            Begin to net and remove the fish and aquatic life. Inspect each net full carefully, but never handle aquatic life with dry hands and limit the amount of physical contact. Place them in the container filled with pond water. Be sure to cover the container after each introduction, carp are excellent jumpers. Add our Holding Tank Water Treatment to the tank. This combination of water conditioners and medications helps to clean the fish and destroy fungus and parasites that may be on the fish.

While the fish are in the tub, add small amounts of fresh water from your hose, to the tub periodically.  You can either overflow the tub or pump and replace water. Never add more than 10% new water at any one time. Be sure to add water conditioners (pond start) each time for all new water. You should add new water until the original water is mixed with more than 75% with new water. Wait approximately 30 minutes between water additions/changes. This will acclimate the fish to the new water pH and temperature of the fresh water you fill the pond with. It may take you longer to acclimate the fish than it takes to clean the pond. Lack of acclimation for the fish will result in fish stress and could lead to their death. The bigger the difference in pH and temperature between the pond and hose water, the longer time you need to acclimate correctly.

F.            You may choose to put the plants in the same container, if not, keep them moist and out of the sun. They do not need acclimation as much as fish, but some acclimation will keep them from shocking out or losing foliage or flowers.

G.            Continue to pump the pond dry. It is a good idea to use this nutrient-rich water to fertilize flowerbeds or vegetable gardens.

Move the discharge hose far away from the pond. Make sure it does not flow down hill to get under the pond. As the water in the pond is lowered, any water under the pond will cause it the pond liner to bubble or lift.

Once the pond is dry, you may wash the walls lightly with a clean brush. Do not use chemical cleaners, bleach or algaecides. Do not scrub the pond 100% clean. Avoid the use of power washers; the pressure of the water can damage liners. Never scrub a pond 100 % clean, to look like new!!!

There are important bacteria and algae that live on the pond surfaces that are essential to the health of your pond. If the pond looks new, it will take as long as two months for the pond to mature and safe enough to reintroduce your fish.

H.            Check all of your equipment, pumps, hoses, filters, etc. Inspect the pond walls and floor for holes or cracks caused by the freezing of the water and earth.

I                Reset any loose or fallen stone work in the pond or waterfall. You may need to re-caulk stones. Avoid mortar on stone work that has water flowing over it. Fresh mortar may raise the pH of the water and lead to algae problems.

J.              Clean and return the plants to the pond (you may want to divide or trade varieties with us). We have aquatic plant pots and pre-bagged potting soil for sale. We also repot plants, call us for an estimate.

K.             Test the water from the refill source for pH and chlorine. Refill the pond to 80% with fresh water and add water conditioner. (Note: if water pH, ammonia or chlorine levels are drastically different from the pond to the new water, you may need to add a buffer or dechlorinator. Please call us if your water testing shows discrepancies.) It is a good idea to check temperature too. We don’t want to replace the fish and plants into freezing water once they have woken up.

L.            Turn on all of the circulating devices and let the water re-circulate for a couple of hours before returning the fish to the pond. Do not remove the air stone from the holding container. When you replenish the water be sure to add the required amount of water treatment to the pond according to the volume of water in the pond. This will break down unwanted chemicals and minerals and give the fish a cleansing, inside and out. Fish have a protective mucus film called a slime coat, on the surface of their scales. The water treatment removes the old slime coat and encourages the development of a new healthy one. It also helps to cleanse the fish of internal parasites.

M.          If the quality of the water in the holding tub is good, return a large percentage of that water back to the pond. This water is aged and will accelerate the ponds maturation after the cleaning. If you can first run it through a filtration system, it will be cleaner. This water will start to reestablish the ecological balance of the pond that the fish are use too. It will stay clear for several days, then you will see an algae bloom, hopefully of good algae (as discussed previously).

Interesting Pond Facts

Algae growth is good for your pond:

Your parents probably taught you that things are best, when you use moderation. This is true with Algae. It is nature’s water filter. Algae has three requirements for growing, first is food, second is light, and third is temperature. You only need to have one of these elements increase above normal to cause an increase in algae growth. An imbalance in any one of these factors can cause algae to become uncontrolled and as too much of most good, things, it becomes a bad thing. The algae is a symptom of your pond going though a change. Remember that algae is a very simple plant. We most often think of algae the same way we think about weeds in our flower or vegetable garden. Some weeds are tolerated, others we destroy. All “weeds” have the ability to become uncontrollable unless there is adequate competition to keep them in check. Unlike weeds in the garden, all ponds require some algae to maintain a good, healthy balance. Algae growth is a symptom of changes in the pond, not the cause of poor water quality. Competition for food, or blocking of excess light or controlling water temperature will help to keep this “water gardening weed” under control in your pond. The trick is determining how much competition and how to provide the competition for the unwanted algae. Let’s start with understanding Algae’s three primary growth requirements.

Algae’s three primary growth requirements:

Light Quantities are controlled by the location of the pond and the percentage of shade on the water surface during the day. Most ponds receive shade from trees or from aquatic floating plants. It is too soon for most trees to be leafing out yet, and the water plants are just beginning to set leaf. Monitor the amount of sunlight the pond receives to see if this too can be a factor. Also remember that the pH of the pond will increase as temperature and light increase. pH increases directly proportionate to the increased rate of photosynthesis during the day. If you test during the afternoon, do not be alarmed at pH factors of 7.5ppm to 8.0ppm. We suggest testing early in the morning to get more accurate and consistent results.

Food comes from organic matter in the water, either fish feces or decaying plant material. Tests for ammonia and nitrogen will determine if your ponds natural bacteria levels are being overworked. A pond that cannot process the amount of waste produced by the fish or debris will need help in order to stay healthy. Excess food will contribute to high bacteria counts and poor water quality becoming a food source for many forms of algae, encouraging it to reproduce.

Temperature is the hardest requirement to control. As the days lengthen and the calendar days approach may the temperature of the air and water will rise. Different forms of algae grow at different temperatures. You must remember that algae is food to aquatic life, and it is the first and best food for the awakening fish and their soon-to-hatch fry. If your pond is in full sun, first test your water. If the pH, ammonia and nitrites test within normal levels, try stretching a shade cloth over the pond or raising the water lilies into shallower water to force quicker leafing to shade the pond water surface. If ammonia and or nitrites are high, clean the pond of debris and perform a water change of at least 25% and add ammonia absorbing chips or conditioners to lower the remaining waters level. Be careful not to perform water changes before the fish are fully out of hibernation, we do not want to damage their protective slime coat or over-stress them. Temperature is a difficult, if not impossible factor to control. There are several new water conditioners and beneficial bacteria additives on the market to help the Auncontrollable green pond.

Cold water will hold a higher percentage of dissolved oxygen than warm water will.

You will notice that the fish are becoming more active as the water becomes warmer. It is important to provide more oxygen as the water temperature increases. Oxygen can be added into the water with the use of an air compressor. We have been selling small air compressors (called bubblers) for years. There is a 1/4″ flexible air tube attached to the compressor that leads into the water and attaches to an air stone (or diffuser). If you have a bubbler or aerator, check that the compressor is working, that the tube is without holes or blockages, and that the air stone is in good condition. This equipment should stay on continuously. Protect the small air bubblers from becoming wet or freezing, and always use GFI (ground fault interrupter) receptacles to supply your electrical needs near the pond.

Another way of supplying oxygen is to activate a water feature such as a fountain or waterfall. It is fine to run these devises during the day, but watch that the lines conveying the water from the pond to the feature do not freeze over night. Frozen lines can over work the water pump and cause damage requiring expensive repair or replacement costs.

Ultra Violet filters will rid your pond of all algae? True or False?

Pond owners are like most modern day gardeners who have too little time to pursue their passions. We have become accustomed to the quick fix. Some retailers will sell an Ultra Violet filter as the answer to all of your algae problems. We wish this was true. This self-contained unit consists of a light bulb which transmits light rays in a range proven to kill bacteria in water. They are used throughout commercial industries and homes as part of water purification systems. They can only sterilize the water that comes in direct contact with the light. Therefore it is next to impossible to sterilize the entire pond, all of the water and all of the surfaces. The sterilization factor is dependant on the flow rate of water moving pass the light wattage or intensity of the bulb (old bulbs still glow but loose intensity after 12 operating months) and exposure time.  UV light is best used as a tool to aid in algae control.  Uncontrolled Algea is generally due to overstocking with animal life and under stocking with plant life.  These units are very effective in reducing algae, when sized correctly as part of a well stocked, planted and filtered pond. Some manufacturers represent that their systems will also help control disease in the pond. This can be true for commercially sized units.

Ugly ponds can be healthy ponds.

When you see a pond with dark green stringy algae you are usually turned away, especially if has a strong odor. This is the result of large amounts of organic matter in the water. It is common to see some of this algae in the spring when the pond is dirty from tree leaves and decaying aquatic plants and dead animals. Algae alone are not a sign of a dying pond. But it does mean the pond needs attention. Anaerobic bacteria tend to have a foal odor (it is usually a release of methane gas, sulfur and other rotting organic matter). Algae in its many forms, tell us the quality of the water. The algae that looks like ‘pea soup’ in the pond is a good form. It is very fine and easily consumed by the awakening fish and their young. It also helps to shade the pond from the heat generated by the longer days of spring. This form of algae is first noticed when the water temperature reaches 50 degrees and lives until the temperature reaches into the 60’s. This period usually lasts about four to eight weeks. If it should linger longer, there may be a chemical imbalance

in the pond. Another beneficial form of long stringy algae is bright green and does not smell bad. It is nature’s water cleanser. Small amounts found in ponds with clean clear, good smelling water is fine to keep around. If you decide to remove it, be careful to not break it up into small pieces, this will actually allow it to spread within the pond. The most important thing is to not eliminate it with algaecides! We use Microb-Lift and Barley Pellets to help control the Pea soup and String algae we all hate so much. Proper fish and plant stocking is the most important factor to controlling algae.

Did you know :

your pond is a biofilter?

Simple Algae and Bacteria were the first forms of life on Earth. They are found in thick Antarctic ice and in volcanic jets deep in the oceans. Bacteria grow in all water temperatures. Algae is a simple plant that processes waste through Photosynthesis. Oxygen is the bi-product. Pond waste is consumed by both aerobic and anaerobic bacteria. Some bacteria even process nitrates, but we mostly utilize aquatic plants to remove the harmful nitrate from the water. Aeration also improves water quality by agitating the water and allowing gasses to escape.

The mechanical portion of your bio-filter (the foam filter media) will catch sediments as they pass through with the cold water. If you have invested in a bio-filter, you will want to begin to operate it during the day, after the threat of frost and once the water temperature is maintained at 55 degrees. Once activated, you must run it continuously to keep the bacteria alive. The fish have had all winter to pollute the pond with their wastes. Decaying plant matter release gases that are absorbed into the water and consume oxygen. It is important to circulate and break up the water to allow the gases to escape and make room for oxygen to be absorbed.

Running a waterfall, if correctly designed and constructed, works fabulously to help clean the water of gases and to aerate the pond. You may want to use a biological filter additive or sludge remover when activating you filter. Call or stop in to discuss these options with one of our technicians to see what product is right for your pond. We also have gravel, bio-balls, beads and other biologic filter media to start your filter. We have several handouts on bio-filtration for you to learn more about various forms of filtration.

It is common to lose several of our colorful fish and amphibious friends during a spring thaw.      When you see a dead fish or frog, remove them immediately and dispose of them. A good method is to bury them in your garden. Fish fertilizer is very effective. If you should see a pattern of death, such as every morning or afternoon, call us. This may be a symptom of a more serious problem. Fungus and parasitic infections are

commonly seen during times of stress, i.e. because of the fluctuating water temperatures. Especially susceptible are black moors and fantails.   If you notice this cotton-like tuft or a strange film on the fish, call us.

New Products:

As major distributors for the products we sell, we are happy to report that the manufactures listen to the consumers and there are more pond related products offered than ever!

So that is the good news, the bad news is that with more choices, comes more training to be sure you are purchasing the right product for your pond and your problem. We are doing extensive training with our staff to make sure they can help you. But please do not be upset if they need to review the labels and maybe even call for backup.

Items we are most excited about are the Ecological biofilter gel formula. This gel is applied directly to the filter pad and starts working immediately to colonize beneficial bacteria. They also have a combo pack that is formulated for both pea soup and string algae. The Barley products have an optional buffering compound to help regulate pH and they added an entire line of water decholination, pH, Phosphate and nitrogen removers.

Go to  http://www.microbelift.com

Jungle’s new pond-fiz line includes an oxy product that will help eliminate algae. Go to http://www.junglelabs.com/ for more info on Jungle pond products.

The importance of

clean pond equipment:

Pond and garden folk tend to be kind and extremely generous. We (I will presume to put myself in this category) like to share with others. Whether it is ideas, what is new, what worked great for their problems or what did not do as they suspected. We also understand the importance of spending money wisely and often lend out tools or supplies to others in need. Generosity is great, but it sometimes comes with a price you never suspect.

It is widely accepted that many water born diseases can be easily transmitted from pond to pond. The trick is to thoughly clean any tools or supplies that get wet or are used to clean, filter or maintain your pond before you lend it to another pond owner for use.

Most major problems will die off if the material is allowed to dry and exposed to strong sunlight. But some of the parasites have eggs that can resist drying and will rejuvenate once exposed to water and then they will start bothering the fish.

We play on the safe side and use bleach or chlorine to sterilize all of our equipment directly after we clean your or our ponds.

Spring care for Flow-thru; Earthen

Spring or Stream-fed Ponds

These ponds are at the mercy of their water source and will show algae growth dependant upon the quality and temperature of the water feeding it. My best advice is to allow spring rains to wash out as much settled organic debris as possible from the pond. If you have a dam or sluice gate, you can open them during heavy water flow which will usually drive the debris down stream. Be careful about releasing fish you may want to keep. Screens will usually keep the larger fish in the pond.

Your next task is to control the plant life in the pond. You can use a water dye to shade the water and stop a plant life invasion below the water surface. Blue/black dyes are available and are FDA accepted as safe for use in ponds with fish that are caught for consumption. If you do not wish to dye the water, but have to thin out plant life, you can rake or net out unwanted plant life as it starts to grow, before it gets out of control. Special long handle and cast rakes are available at our store. We stock one or two types, but can order units in special sizes to meet the needs of your pond.

If your bog plants on embankments need dividing, it is best to attempt it before the water level rises. It’s easier for you if you are not working in the cold muddy water.

Unless your water source is chemically treated, you do not need to use water treatments or declorinators. The use of chemicals, even “fish friendly” ones in a natural pond may cause damage to the ecosystem in the pond, or in stream and wetlands below. If you see a large number of fish dying or with disease, call us before introducing any chemicals or medications in the water.

Our plant trade-in program,

is always very popular in the fall. It is available all year long; the plants traded must be in full active growth to receive any credit. The way it works is this: You bring us your plant, in good growing condition, and you take home a new active growing plant of your choice or receive in-store credit to be used towards later purchases. Plants must be in containers, and not show signs of rot or freezing.

The value will be a percentage based on current retail costs of similar size and variety plants in stock.  This credit can only be applied towards other aquatic plant purchases. It cannot be used to purchase equipment, pharmaceuticals, annuals, perennials, pump or filtration equipment or items in the gift shop.